
In Sarajevo, we rented a car and drove to Mostar, a city in the west of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Mostar is most famous for its bridge. No pun intended; “most” actually means bridge in Bosnian.

The bridge is 21m (about 70ft) hight, and was built by the Ottomans in the 16th century. Locals jump off the bridge…for money. Due to the height, they must execute the pencil drop perfectly, or risk injury. Only about 1,000 tourists have successfully completed the jump. Some have died. During the war, the bridge was heavily bombed, but has been restored.
The bridge was not the only building bombed during the war. In fact, Mostar was the most heavily bombed town in Bosnia. A good portion of it was utterly destroyed. Today, much of that trauma is still visible, as derelict, shattered buildings adjoin new homes. 
The bones of an 8 storey building sits on what was the front line. Previously a bank, the building was used by snipers during the war, given its strategic location.

Nowadays, the building, dubbed The Glass Bank, is abandoned, save for the homeless people who sleep or do drugs there. The floors are completely covered in glass and rubbish. We were warned to be careful, as there are dirty needles littering the floors. 

To access the building, it was necessary to climb over a 6 foot stone wall, and make our way through the ground floor, until we reached the stairwell.
I was pretty nervous climbing the stairs, as I’m scared of heights, and there was no wall or railing next to the stairs. Vertigo kicked in around the 5th floor, but I tried my best to look straight ahead.
Each floor, while strewn with garbage, was filled with interesting artwork.
To reach the roof, we climbed the fire escape,
and were awarded with views of the city, from the top.
We arrived at dusk, and were a little apprehensive about entering and climbing a bombed, abandoned building, but it is good that we decided to. It was quite a somber experience. Being inside the building, afforded a very small glimpse of the damage sustained during war, and the physical scars left behind.
A less weighty subject, is the fact that there is a random statue of Bruce Lee in the park next to the Glass Bank.
The story that our Airbnb host told us regarding this statue was that after the war, the local government kept making monuments to the fallen citizens of each ethnic group (Serb, Croat, Bosnian). Residents finally urged their councilmen to stop spending money on memorials, and start fixing dilapidated buildings. Well, by that time, the money had already been spent. To appease the irritated citizens, the government said that they would build a monument that everyone would like. So, they chose a statue of Bruce Lee, obviously. They reasoned that everyone likes Bruce Lee, so why not place a statue of him in their park. 
Everyone was so angry, that they decided to boycott the dedication ceremony. The government, afraid of not having anyone at the unveiling, proclaimed that Steven Seagal was going to be present for the unveiling. That prompted all the residents to turn up for the ceremony, but, alas, there was no Steven Seagal. He was in Hong Kong, at the dedication for the Bruce Lee statue there. Again, this is just the story we were told, and I didn’t do any fact checking, so take it with a grain of salt.
Beer of Choice: Mostarvsko






