Qatar, the pearl of the Persian Gulf

“Wait, you’re in Qatar as a tourist?! Why???”. This question was repeatedly asked of me during my two day stay in the small, Middle Eastern country of Qatar.

As I passed through customs in Dubai, for my connecting flight to Doha, even the immigration agent was incredulous about my choice of vacation spot. “Qatar has a lot of money, but nothing else,” offering his two cents on the subject.

He was right about the money. Qatar is the richest country in the world per capita. There is a lot of oil there. The nation also possesses the world’s largest single reservoir of natural gas. For a country that used to rely on fishing and pearl diving, this is a big change.

So many Land Rovers in the dusty parking lots

Since the discovery of these fossil fuels 60 years ago, the infrastructure and business sector have grown rapidly, with international corporations setting up shop in Doha, the capital city. The arrival of these international businesses has meant an influx of ex-pats relocating to Qatar, outnumbering locals 4 to 1. A bit like Dubai, buildings are popping up left and right. New skyscrapers have been constructed, and purpose-built communities, replete with luxury retail stores and in-built waste disposal systems have been developed. Since the infrastructure is so new, it is probably why people living there think there is nothing to see.

Granted, there aren’t a ton of attractions, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t an interesting place to visit. Just observing the culture, and walking around the markets is interesting. Souq Waqif, meaning “standing market”, is the oldest market in the country. The narrow alleyways that zigzag through the crammed market are full of local men and women purchasing goods such as jewelry, food, and pets.

The poor cat was trapped next to the birds

I sampled some Qatari food from a stand….. but I’m not sure what I ate. Lentil stew? Rice and chicken? And warm munchkin donut like dough balls covered in sticky glaze.

I ended up having dinner at an Iraqi restaurant. The country is essentially dry, though alcohol can be purchased at bars at high end hotels. So, instead of wine, most people sip fruit drinks with their meals. I had a delicious mint and lemon juice, that reminded me of a really yummy virgin mojito.

My favorite spot was the Museum of Islamic Art, which was a surprisingly enjoyable and informative attraction. I learned a lot about Islamic Art, and its manifestations in everyday life.

In a territory stretching from Spain to India, Islamic art is different from the Western idea of art. It isn’t just statues or paintings. Actually, it’s rarely those things. Muslims just make everyday items into works of art, intertwining religion and culture. Things like an incense burner or a flask are intricately decorated.

Since living beings are forbidden in decorations of religious places, geometrical patterns predominate. There are repeating patterns, which can be seen across the whole of the Islamic world, creating a unified aesthetic.

The museum was organized into sections showing different themes in Islamic art. For instance, one room contained pottery and scrolls decorated with calligraphy. In another, the influence of Islam on science was depicted, with astronomical instruments covered in lovely detail. Another showcased the fact that animals and figures aren’t absent in Islamic Art; they’re just forbidden in religious places.

The museum itself was a very modern building with great views of the skyline over the harbor. And it was a welcome respite from the 104 degree humidity.

Qatar is rapidly blossoming, and the emir (leader) is planning for the future. The soccer world cup will be held here in 2022, though as most people know, this is fraught with corruption. There is also talk of the 2024 Summer Olympics being held here. However, I can’t imagine how they’ll be able to hold any events outside during the summer, with the intense, humid heat. I’m guessing the marathon would have to be held at night, or else runners would be dropping like flies. I mean, the city was built in the desert, so it’s understandable. An interesting fact is that the country is totally flat. The highest point in the entire country is 103m (~300ft).

I have visited several other Muslim countries, but aside from Brunei, Qatar is the most conservative. I hopped on a bus at the airport and sat down behind some men. A minute later, after two women boarded the bus and sat in a different area, I noticed the sign on the other side of the bus designating the women and family seating area. I had inadvertently sat in the single men’s area. Most Qatari women wear a burqa or abaya to cover their heads and bodies. Foreigners aren’t required to do this, but I did have to dress modestly, with shoulders and legs covered in loose fitting clothing. At my hotel’s pool I was able to wear a bikini, but there was a woman swimming fully clothed, giving me my first introduction to a burkini. It was also a bit of a shock when I went to the rooftop bar of my hotel, where alcohol is actually served, and had to show my passport, as Qatari women are prohibited from entering.

The short stay in Qatar was a pleasant look at a different culture. The immigration officer was wrong; I was never bored or felt like there was a lack of things to see. While it might be difficult to entertain oneself for weeks on end, it was enjoyable for a couple of days.

Beer of Choice: Yeah, none, seeing that this is a dry country and all.

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