
Rising out of the aquamarine ocean looms rock that has been sculpted into tall, spiky pinnacles covered in emerald green vegetation. This was our first glimpse of Moorea on the ferry from Papeete. This Polynesian island, close to Tahiti, could easily have been reached with a seven minute flight, but we had elected the local (i.e. cheaper) method.

After loading our bags into metal crates that were forklifted onto the ship, we joined the other riders, for a smooth sail across the bay to Tahiti’s little sister.
We walked into the resort, feeling out of place like we do every time we stay someplace fancy. But the French accented, friendly staff didn’t even bat an eyelid at our backpacks and sweaty clothes, making us feel incredibly welcome with fresh juice and an upgrade to a private beach bungalow.
French Polynesia is one of those confusing places that has some autonomy, but isn’t quite a country. It has a president, but is still technically part of France. It’s labeled an overseas collectivity, sort of like St Martin, in the Caribbean. As a result, everyone speaks both Tahitian and French, and most also speak English. The food is a delicious fusion of traditional French cuisine and fresh seafood. We stuffed ourselves so full of freshly caught, raw fish, that we were close to growing gills.

Tahiti is famous for growing vanilla, and this exotic spice was added to many dishes. Fish was served with a delicious vanilla sauce that tasted like the milk left over after a bowl of Lucky Charms cereal.

Luckily we didn’t see (or feel!) any stonefish, the poisonous brown fish that hide camouflaged in coral and whose sting can be deadly. Sea turtles are abundant in French Polynesia, but like in other parts of the world, they are threatened. Green Turtles are eaten by locals, causing their numbers to dip. Unfortunately for the Hawksbill turtles, their appearance is similar to their tasty relation, but their meat can be poisonous, since they eat toxic sponges, and they are often speared for food, then discarded when the fisherman realizes they’re not the palatable variety.
The Intercontinental Moorea has a sea turtle clinic, where many of these injured turtles are treated and rehabilitated. There are also a number of baby turtles, who grow in the nursery. 400 turtles have passed through its waters since its creation, with about half of those being released into the wild.

