Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world, per capita. During the Vietnam war, 580,000 bombing missions were conducted over Laos, which means a bombing mission every 8 minutes for 9 years.
During that time, two million tonnes of bombs were dropped on Laos, of which 30% failed to detonate. As a result of these unexploded ordnances (UXOs), 25% of Lao villages are contaminated with bombs and mines that have not yet exploded but still have the potential to detonate. And unfortunately they do detonate, maiming and killing about 100 people every year.
We heard the story of one man who was cooking in his house, when the heat from his fire caused a bomb to go off. He had lived there for years, never knowing there was an unexploded bomb under his floor. There are still so many UXOs that we have been warned not to venture off any paths.
We visited a medical rehabilitation center called COPE in the capital Vientiane. This organization provides rehab services for people injured by UXOs, and trains local people how to manufacture prosthetics. They provide financial support where needed, so injured people from all over the country can receive treatment.
When we were there, we walked past a group of men in wheelchairs playing a game of basketball. The center was incredibly moving and sobering. It seems incredible that bombs from the Vietnam war are still killing people.
Aside from COPE, Vientiane has very European feel, despite being the capital of a communist country. There are cafes and French bakeries up and down the tree lined streets. I was so excited to be able to have delicious iced coffees!
We didn’t spend much time in Vientiane; it was basically a stop over on our trip north. The most poignant part of our stay was visiting COPE. There is some incredible work being done there, and it was eye-opening to learn about the extent to which the country was bombed. 
Beer of choice: none consumed. Iced coffee!